Where I stayed and how I made my reservations
For travelers like me on a tight schedule, trying to see as much as possible, good planning is essential. The Internet has made this much easier: it is possible to directly contact most travel agents and hotels and to nail down travel details far in advance.

The first problem, after selecting a date and destination, is always finding a trustworthy travel agent. I prefer to use an in-country agent figuring that they will know more about local conditions and will be able to get the best deals.

After a little Internet investigation I decided to use Raymi Travel (raymi_travels@perusat.net.pe) in Lima. I got several favorable recommendations from people on Lonely Planet's Thorntree (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com). When I wrote to Toon, the owner, he promptly replied and made several air reservations for me. In the end the ticket for Lima-Cuzco-Puerto Maldonado-Lima cost $214. The Lima-Quito-Lima flight was $258. Best of all, he wanted to wait until I arrived before accepting payment. It's worth noting that he will only accepts cash. He also bought my Lima-Nazca bus ticket for $20.

I also made reservations at Toon's hotel, Mami Panchita (http://www.bed42.com/mamipanchita) which is close enough to the airport to be a convenient stop over when passing through Lima. I also arranged to have Toon send a car, solving the problem of how to get to and from the hotel. It cost $15 for a spartan but perfectly adequate single room, while the transportation both ways was $25. I stayed at the hotel three times. I highly recommend both Raymi Travel and Mami Panchita - they were friendly, helpful and always reliable - plus I found lots of interesting people to talk to at the hotel.

I flew from Detroit to Lima via Houston and returned via Newark. I used Northwest Airline Frequent Flyer miles but actually flew to and from Lima on Continental Airlines. Both Peru and Ecuador will grant a 30-day visa on arrival to national of most countries but you had better check to make sure yours is one of them.

In Cuzco I stayed at Hostal Cristina (hcristina@terra.com.pe - www.bed42.com/cusco/cristina) located on Avenue Sol, one of the main streets, and conveniently located near the center of town. My room was small and a little dark. Like every place I stayed it also lacked heat. It seemed reasonable at $32 a night. My only real complaint was that they were never able to get my laundry back when they said they would, otherwise I liked the place. By the way, like all places in Peru and Ecuador there was a surcharge if you want to use a credit card - sometime as high as 22%. In addition, there was often a surcharge to use traveler's checks. Cash was king in Peru and Ecuador.

Neither Raymi Travel nor the Hostal Cristina could help me with the train to Machu Picchu, so I decided to use Peru Hotel (reservations@peru-hotels.com - http://www.peru-hotels.com/trainsked.htm). I paid $99 for my ticket but discovered that locally you can buy the same for $79. I rationalize the extra $20 as a guarantee that I had a seat the day I wanted to travel.

I stayed at the Wasai Lodge in Puerto Maldonado (reservas@wasai.com - http://www.wasai.com/maldo.htm). If you need accommodations in Puerto Maldonado this is the best place. Open and airy, quiet and clean - my delightful river-view was $42.50 per night.

The Sandoval Lake Lodge ((liz@tropicalnaturetravel.com - http://tropicalnaturetravel.com/travel/lodges/sandoval.html) was the most expensive place I stayed - and the only one that required prepayment. Considering that they transported me both ways on the river, fed me three meals and I had a room to myself, $180 probably wasn't that bad. The facilities and staff were top notch and I really enjoyed my stay here. I can't praise this place enough.

Hotel Ali Shungu (alishngu@uio.telconet.net - www.alishungu.com) was the hotel I choose in Otavalo. This was the nicest place I stayed in this trip: I had a very comfortable room and the restaurant had great food. It was a real bargain at $36 a night. My only problem was I thought Margaret, the owner, a bit of a jerk when she would sell me any of the lovely rugs she had so predominately displayed on the walls. I recommend this hotel if you are in Otavalo.

La Cartuja (cartuja@uio.satnet.net - http://www.hotelacartuja.com) was another very nice hotel. It was well located near shops and transportation but still very quiet. I had a nice room: it was comfortably appointed with a great view of the mountains that surround Quito. I paid $38 a night. I also highly recommend this hotel.

I stayed at the Hotel Alegria in Nazca (carlosnasca@yahoo.com - http://www.nazcaperu.com). My room was plain but clean and only cost $15 a night. The hotel was well located a short walk from the main square. I used the adjoining travel agent - Alegria Tours - to arrange my flight over the Nazca Lines ($40). They also bought my bus ticket back to Lima for $20. I recommend this hotel/agency if you visit Nazca.

Ann Arbor, Michigan
November 2002

Part One: Cuzco & Machu Picchu
Part Two: Puerto Maldonado
Part Three: Otavalo & Quito, Ecuador
Part Four: Nazca

Read more of my travelogues

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