Tuesday, February 18, 2003
Kandy, Sri Lanka
In the morning Lucky’s limp was miraculous gone. His foot showed none of the previous day’s swelling at all. I had been more than a little skeptical of Lucky's choice of medical service now I was left with a grudging respect. It certainly had worked.

We had agreed to a late start today since we were only going to Kandy, about 4 hours away. On the way Lucky suggested we make a few stops. First, he pulled over at a batik shop where I bought a lovely image of the Hindu god Ganesha. Later, we stopped at a spice plantation where I was given a little tour (quite useless) and then quickly led to the shop where I was pressured to buy some spices. After that I declined anymore shopping.

I had asked Lucky to stop in Matale, which is about 25km north of Kandy. I know someone from there and I wanted to take some pictures back for him. When we arrived we discovered that a large, noisy Hindu festival was going on. Lucky dropped me in the middle and told me to meet him at the post office farther down the road.

At the center of it were several tall, brightly decorated carts on large, wooden wheels. They were almost two stories tall and had a small covered "room" on top, which contained an image of the god. Men and women moved the cart by pulling on two fat ropes as loud Tamil music blared from speakers attached to a nearby temple. Vendors and onlookers crowded the street and the scorching sun beat down on us all.

With great excitement and lots of shouting the carts were pulled a few dozen yards at a time. When they stopped, food (offerings, I guess) were handed up to the men (priests?) sitting with the statues at the top and food was handed back down. This routine was repeated over and over as the carts moved slowly, but surely, toward the temple courtyard. I walked around taking pictures for nearly an hour and then went looking for Lucky.

We continued on to Kandy and arrived at my hotel, the Queens, a little after noon. It was another colonial hotel, meaning old and charming. Lucky accompanied me in where we said goodbyes and I gave him his tip. He had been an excellent guide and great company - I was sorry to see him go, but also glad to be on my own again.

At the desk there was some confusion about my reservation, despite the many emails I had sent. It seemed I didn't have a confirmation and they could only promise me an air-conditioned room for two nights. After that I would need to move to the older, non-air-conditioned section of the hotel. The woman at the desk was so apologetic that it didn't seem worth making a fuss, despite the fact that I had her confirming email with me.

So, I took my stuff up to my room, which had a wooden floor, high ceiling and a great view of the hills around Kandy. As quickly as I could I headed back out again to take a look at the city - and what I saw I liked. The hotel was right across from a large artificial lake, which, as in India, was called a "tank". Behind the hotel was an interesting business district with restaurants, jewelry shops, bookstores and a few Internet places.

The people were very friendly and it seemed like everybody wanted to know where I was from. Also, there were virtually no touts or beggars, so walking around was quite easy and pleasant. I wandered around for several hours and finally decided to head back to my room where I took a refreshing shower - Kandy was hot and humid - and at 7:00 PM headed over to the Temple of the Tooth.

At the temple, which contains one of the Buddha's teeth, ceremonies were held twice a day - once in the morning and once at night. Tourists and locals attend them in about equal numbers. The temple was quite ornate inside, with bright tapestries decorating the room in the center, which contains the tooth.

Three men played drums and another a high-pitched reed instrument. Priests marched in and out of the "tooth room" in a ceremony that was completely incomprehensible, but very colorful. Outside in the pleasant night air there was a metal rack where pilgrims were lighting little offering fires. All and all it was a very interesting sight.

After this, I found a bar/restaurant next to my hotel that had some tables outside right across from the tank. I ordered a beer and sat for a while writing in my journal, enjoying the cool evening. Later I walked over to a nearby Internet place and sent some email to my friends crowing about the fine weather, lovely town and friendly people I was meeting. I figured the least I could do was make them feel jealous. In return, I got email telling about a recent snowstorm and how much of the white stuff it dumped in my yard - ha!

Wednesday, February 19, 2003
Kandy, Sri Lanka
After breakfast I took a long walk. It was still cool and the sun wasn't quite over the hills that surround Kandy yet. First, I walked around the market and then walked part way around the tank watching kids dressed all in white heading to school. I then took a tuk-tuk to the train station where I bought a ticket to Colombo for Friday. I got a seat in the "observation", car which is recommended for a good view of the Sri Lankan countryside.

Later, I bought some postcards and sat by the hotel pool and fulfilled my obligation to my friends back home. After, I got another tuk-tuk to the bus station where, with a little help from the locals, I found the correct bus to the Botanic Gardens.

It is a massive place full of exotic plants and trees. As it was now quite hot, my desire to see it all quickly disappeared. Instead I found a shady bench by a large, open area called the Great Circle and sat watching sweating tour groups trudge by. While I sat there several Sri Lankans came over to talk to me. I guess they just wanted to see who I was. I was quite taken by their openness. Being a solo traveler it's nice to so easily meet locals and to be able to talk about our lives.

On the way back to town I got off the bus to check out a couple of tourist shops. They were full of very lovely crafts - sandalwood carvings, batiks, silk and such - but compared to India, quite expensive. So much so that I didn't buy anything despite seeing many things I wanted.

That evening I followed the same program as the previous evening. I had a beer at the open bar while listening to the birds roost in the trees around the tank. I sat for a while writing the day’s events in my journal and then went to send some annoying email to my friends.

It seemed odd but Kandy simply closes up at night and after 8:00 there were very few shops open. There was no night market, something that I think of as typical in Asia, so after the email I just headed back to my room.

It had been a very interesting day. Sometimes these days of just wandering with few destinations are the most satisfying.

Thursday, February 20, 2003
Kandy, Sri Lanka
What could be better: a cool morning breeze, memories of yesterday and a blank day ahead. After breakfast I packed up since I was losing my luxury room and being moved to one in the older part of the hotel. (My room rate fell from $28 to $22 per night.) After turning in some laundry, I went down to the travel office in the lobby - Lucky had introduced me to the manager - and arranged for a car to visit three temples located southwest of Kandy. The half-day tour cost me 2000 Rupees ($21).

About 30 minutes later a polite young man in a 7-seat van showed up. We quickly passed through Kandy's busy suburbs and turned off the main road, down a narrow, bumpy track. Just that quick we were in a different world. One of lovely, green covered hills and little valleys filled with rice. There were small houses scattered on the hillside and all was peaceful and quiet.

We climbed several hills and finally arrived at our first stop, Gadaladeniya Temple. It was situated on the top of a large rock where several ponds had been carved and filled with flowers and fish. I paid 100 Rupees admission and was shown around by a caretaker. This temple had both a statue of the Buddha and a small shrine to the Hindu god, Vishnu. After tipping the caretaker we headed off again.

Along the way I saw two men walking on a path next to a rice field and called for the driver to stop. I walked quickly behind the men thinking that when they saw me they would stop. When they did, we talked for a few minutes about where I was from and when the rice would be harvested. I took their picture and we took off again.

Our next stop was at the Lankatilaka Temple, which really was two temples in one. In a dark corridor around the outside there were several shrines to Hindu gods. From the far side there was another entrance to a separate temple, located in the middle that contained a statue of Buddha.

First, I had a guide show me the Hindu shrines. He told me that the combined temple was built because the king was Buddhist and his queen was Hindu. He then asked, "You are happy with me?" meaning I should tip him. Asking for a tip is a sure way to get a lesser amount from me.

Next, a monk showed me the Buddhist part. When we were done he asked me for a pen. I told him I didn't have one. He stepped closer and patted my shirt pocket and then tried to cover his actions up by tickling me. He got no tip.

Further along we stopped at the Embekke Temple, which is famous for the carved pillars that support the porch roof. A very kind fellow showed me around explaining the images on each of the pillars. After seeing the inside of the temple we went back to the porch where a bunch of local men were lounging. I sat taking with them for a while and taking their pictures. They were very willing subjects and had a great time looking at the little digital images. I tipped the guide and left.

We got back to Kandy about noon. I found my new room was on the far side of the hotel. Someone had to show me the way - I was surprised how big the hotel was. This room wasn't as nice, but was perfectly adequate.

There was a large, white statue of Buddha on a hill just south of Kandy. I could see it from my hotel room and later I decided to go visit it. I found a tuk-tuk driver and after much arguing settled on a price (I believe 150 Rupees), but as soon as we took off he tried to change it. First, he said he would only take me up and not return. I yelled, "Stop, stop, let me out," but he relented only to try again. This time he wanted me to pay for him to wait. Again, I ordered him to stop only to have him relent.

At the top there was a 100 Rupee admission and a great view over Kandy. I stood enjoying it while talking to some locals. Then we went back to Kandy where the driver dropped me at the market, not by the hotel where he had picked me up - he got no tip.

From there I walked slowly back to the hotel stopping in lots of shops, talking to the proprietors and steadily taking pictures. I really was enjoying Kandy. While traveling around Sri Lanka I often asked locals what place was their favorite and all would mention Kandy. I certainly agreed.

That evening I got an email telling me that the country singer Johnny Paycheck had died - someone I admired. I had some of his music on my mp3 player and decided to go to my favorite bar, have a beer and say goodbye to him.

Being a man of habit I tend to frequent the same places and order the same things. As a consequence, I get known quickly. Also, I had taken to leaving the hotel by the employee entrance, which was right next to the bar. Doing that I got to know the guards as well as the waiters, so when I sat down they came over to see what I was doing. First, they all wanted to listen to my mp3 player, passing the ear buds around, and then they stood to have their pictures taken. I always wonder why people are so happy to have their photo taken when they only have the tiny digital display to look at. Anyway, I'm glad they were because I got some great shots.

After they left I drank my beer, listened to old Johnny, wrote in my journal and then went to bed - I had an early train to catch.

Ann Arbor, Michigan
April 2003

Part One: Anuradhapura, Sigiriya & Polonnaruwa
Part Two: Kandy
Part Three: Unawatuna

Read more of my travelogues

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