The Engherlab in Yazd
Avoid this hotel if you can. It's in the suburbs a long way from anything interesting. Also the rooms aren't really that nice and the staff is kind of surly. As it seemed to cater mostly to Iranians, I did meet a number of interesting people, but wouldn't go back if I could avoid it.
The Akhavan in Kerman
This was another great place. I had a quite room on the top floor that faced away from the street. The lobby always seemed to be full of activity. The owners were super friendly and came around to chat with the guests. As a bonus, the food in the basement restaurant was some of the best I had in Iran. If you don't have transportation it may not be for you: it's quite a ways from the center of Kerman.
The Park in Shiraz
It was one of those fading gems I love so much: there was monogrammed china and linen in the dining room while there were cigarette burns on the carpet and exposed pipes in the bathroom. The desk staff was very friendly and helpful. There were tables in the flower filled forecourt where I could can sit and relax. The location is also excellent. It's about10-minutes from the bazaar. A great hotel - if you go to Shiraz, make sure you stay here.
The Kowsar in Tehran
I liked this hotel a lot too. Whenever I would sit in the lobby various members of the staff would come over and talk to me. I learned a lot about Iran in those conversations. I thought the location a little out of the way but suspect everything in Tehran would be a taxi ride away anyway. I had a room in the back with a view of the snow-covered mountains. It's a pretty big place and has several restaurants and a taxi service in the lobby.
Doug Burnett
Ann Arbor, Michigan
May 1999
Part One: Isfahan
Part Two: Yazd, Kerman & Bam
Part Three: Shiraz & Tehran
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